Monday, June 28, 2010

Belize - Day 10 - Wishing Well cave

The rain finally stopped in the morning. Fortunately, our guide to Xunantunich, Alex, mentioned to us a couple of days ago that there was a nice cave on the property called the “wishing well” cave. They don’t use it for tours but it is a dry cave and doesn’t require a river crossing, i.e., it was feasible to do! We convinced the Cave’s Branch people to let us be the first guests to tour the cave and Alex was our guide. (Ironic that our Alex suggested the solution to Tropical Storm Alex!)



The path to the cave was barely a path (Alex had “cleared” it in the morning), but it wasn’t too difficult a hike.



We tried palm nuts (which taste like coconuts) and Alex captured a botfly to show us the larvae inside it. For those of you who don’t know what a botfly is, be prepared for the following. A botfly places its larvae on mosquitoes. A mosquito bites you and the larvae drops off the mosquito onto your skin. It burrows into your skin and then eats your flesh as it grows into a botfly. When its metamorphosis is complete, it breaks through the skin to emerge as a botfly to start the process all over again. Think the movie Alien, but fortunately the alien isn’t quite so big. Gross, nevertheless.



Another highlight on the way to the cave was the “ant experience”. Alex struck an ant mound several times with his machete to stir the leaf cutter ants that lived inside. When one of the large soldier ants emerged, he grabbed it, let its mandibles grab onto Quentin’s shirt and broke off the body leaving the head. This, apparently, is how the Maya made stitches for deep cuts. Can you imagine having a long gash on your leg lined up with dead ant heads? On the way back from the cave, Quentin got brave and caught a couple himself, attaching them on to Papa’s t-shirt.



The cave was definitely worth visiting. Lots of cool formations and Mayan pottery everywhere. We didn’t see a crystallized skeleton (like we would have in one of the caves that we missed) but overall it was a good experience.



Belize - Days 8 & 9 - Rain, rain, go away

We chose to take Day 8 off. On the day itself, we enjoyed some rest and relaxation. Quentin, Annick and Isaac spent hours in the pool. Gerard edited photos. Beth and Xavier played Scrabble. There is a group of archeologists staying at Caves Branch and Isaac was able to join them washing shards of Mayan pottery. That was a thrill for him.



By the next morning, it was clear that we made a bad choice taking the day off. The night before, rain pelted the roof. We had planned to go to two river caves on days 9 and 10, but Tropical Storm Alex decided to form off the coast of Honduras and proceed to march over Belize dropping buckets and buckets of water. The torrent of water dramatically raised the height of the Caves Branch river, which prevented access to the two caves we were hoping to see.

The consolation prize on day 9 was to go to the Belize Zoo and a zipline place. The zoo was nice enough and we did see some new animals, but it wasn’t what we wanted to do. However, three of us got to experience the sting of fire ants on our feet as we were admiring a butterfly. They are small but they swarm and their bite is really nasty!



The zipline had 8 platforms and we probably finished the entire course in 40 minutes (including suiting up, walking up to the first platform and unpacking). In New Zealand they use one cable and you do everything on your own. Here, they used two cables, did not include any obstacle course challenges and had two guides to do all of the hooking and unhooking. Fun, but it wasn’t what we wanted to do. (And no pictures because it was raining the entire time.)

Friday, June 25, 2010

Belize - Day 7 - Rappelling down a sinkhole

Today we went on a hike to the “Black Hole Drop”. It was a steep and rocky climb for over an hour through the steamy jungle. We were all soaking wet with sweat when we arrived – we mean, soaking wet! Black Hole is a large sinkhole in the middle of the rainforest filled with large trees, vines and caves along the edges. The following is a view across the sinkhole looking directly at our rappelling site:



We were fitted with helmets and harnesses and one by one, we had to rappel down over the edge without being able to see the bottom below. The first 10 or 15 feet of rappelling were the scariest because you had to walk backwards off a cliff.



After that, you sat in your harness, enjoyed the view and descended to the forest floor about 300 feet below. What a thrill! The following a photo Beth took while hanging on the rope looking at the people below:



And this is a photo, taken from the bottom looking up, of another person on our tour:



After we all made it down, we enjoyed a picnic lunch and then it was time to head back home (via a ladder at the shallowest part of the sinkhole). Instead of dealing with the heat again, the skies opened up with pouring rain to provide some cooling relief.

Thursday, June 24, 2010

Belize - Day 6 - Maya ruins

Xavier was thrilled to have the upstairs bedroom to himself but it didn’t work out so perfectly. After the waterfall caving trip, Quentin changed in Xavier’s room but left his wet underwear in Xavier’s bedroom floor. When Xavier went to pick up the wet undergarment a “huge” cockroach jumped out, crawled on to Xavier’s arm, advanced up his arm to his shoulder and then scooted down his back while Xavier did desparate contortions to try to remove the disgusting vermin from his flesh. We were all downstairs when this happened – if only we had a recording of Xavier’s panicked scream!



But it wasn’t totally over for Xavier. During the night, some creature scritched and scratched on his roof, keeping him awake. He has the bright idea to clap to scare the beast but all that it did was move to another part of the roof. Tonight he vows to go outside with a flashlight to see what beast he is dealing with.

Although this is out of sequence, we have another bug story. Beth was in the shower at our place at Lamanai shampooing her hair when she looked down and saw something squirming on the shower floor. She had no glasses on, so she flew out of the shower dripping wet and soapy and put on the glasses only to discover that she was sharing the shower with a three-inch scorpion! She yelped and asked Annick for a sandal. The first whack only made it squirm more and finally the second harder whack destroyed it.

Returning to day 6, we woke up to drenching rain tumbling down on our metal roof. What a racket! Other than a brief shower on the boat ride from Lamanai, this was our first rain in the rainforest. The rain cleared out and the sunshine poked through by the time we went down to breakfast. Soon after, we headed out to two Mayan sites, Xunantunich and Cahel Pech.



It was hot. Very hot. Very hot and steamy with no shade. We climbed to the top and admired the view across the Mopan river valley and over to Guatemala. The main temple at Xunantunich is the second highest in Belize. It is a towering structure overlooking a huge site filled with some noble houses and a ball court.



After melting at Xunantunich, we went to San Ignacio to have lunch at a restaurant. Fortunately, it was a casual outdoor restaurant as Gerard and Beth were completely drenched in sweat. It was embarrassing, but what choice did we have? The wait staff obviously noticed our situation and strategically place a fan blowing right at us. Eventually, we dried off before heading off to the next Mayan site.

Cahel Pech was also punishingly hot – what a surprise! It is not as well excavated as Xunantunich but it had some cool structures and there was a team of archaeologists working a site. We watch them do their thing for a bit and then we were on the ride back to our lodge.



Wednesday, June 23, 2010

Belize - Day 5 - Caving

We signed up for the waterfall cave adventure. Very cool. It starts with a very bumpy ride through an orange grove, then a 40 minute hike to the cave entrance which had a bunch of cool bats.





The walk through the cave was fun but not adventurous. However, that changed when we got to the waterfalls. First, we climbed up them – one was tall enough to require ropes and harnesses for safety. Then we came back down, but instead of climbing down, we jumped off the bigger waterfalls into the pool at the bottom. The jumps were thrilling and scary!



Belize - Day 4 - Traveling around

Another 5 am rise, but at least the howlers were nice enough to put off their howling until 5:05 am. We headed to Dawson’s creek in canoes, the scene of our crocodile experience. Nothing dramatic to report with respect to wildlife but a pleasant outing.

“Back at the ranch” we packed up and just before taking off we had another howler close encounter, a howler charging Gerard trying to take pictures and best of all, we watched the little baby hitch a ride down our path in front of our cabin.



The travels to Caves Branch was relatively smooth. We unpacked and headed to Blue Hole, about a 15 minute walk from our lodge, for a cool dip in a jungle pond.

Tuesday, June 22, 2010

Belize - Day 3 - Manatees and crocodiles

Woke up at 5 a.m. this morning to go on a Jungle Dawn walk with Mauricio. Didn’t get to see the toucans we were hoping to see, but we did see a large flock of big colorful parrots. We also spotted a variety of other birds as well. We stopped by the old Sugar Mill for a few minutes to explore around.



Ate breakfast and spent most of the day resting and reading. The howler monkeys were still swinging around in the trees on the property. Gerard spent about an hour observing them and taking pictures.





At one point, the teen male fell out of the tree and Gerard was standing there in between the monkey and the trunk of the tree. The howler got slightly angry that Gerard was blocking the way and ended up chasing him down. Gerard backed off, but the howler continued to intimidate him a bit before relenting. Beth and Isaac were there to watch the scene and it freaked out Isaac who went running from the attack monkey at mach speed.



Later, Xavier was hanging out on our front porch when he heard a loud “whoosh” and looked down to the water where he saw a manatee. We all raced down to the dock and spent some time observing this shadow in the water that would occasionally surface to take a breath and then quickly descend again. We didn’t get to see much more than his nose until Gerard got in the canoe with Isaac. The canoe really frightened the poor manatee and he made a powerful swoop with his tail making the water boil and the canoe rock. Consequently, that frightened Gerard and Isaac. Needless to say, the manatee took off in a hurry to the deeper water.



In the late afternoon, we boarded an airboat and drove out to the marshlands. We saw loads of birds including snail kites and ibises. It was a thrilling ride through the grassy marshes with the late-day sunlight making everything glow. We stopped for awhile for snacks and drinks before turning around and heading back to the lodge. The funniest part of the ride was Quentin’s hair!



After dinner we headed out for another spotlight tour. Fewer big crocodiles tonight but we had a close encounter nevertheless. In a narrow creek Mauricio turn the boat sideways to point its front into a small “hole” in the marsh vegetation. He asked us to hold on to a branch to keep the boat in place and he disappeared off the front of the boat into knee deep water. He returned after a couple of minutes with a baby Morelet crocodile!



He (or she) was small (about a foot from head to tail) but he still had very sharp teeth so Mauricio didn’t want us to hold him unless we could tie his snout. Annick volunteered her hair band and the close encounter was complete. The highlight of the tour.

Monday, June 21, 2010

Belize - Day 2 - Howlers and night safari

Our afternoon was spent hanging around in hammocks reading books and listening to music. We all took turns swimming off the dock in the New River. Xavier and Gerard took out a canoe and had a paddle around the lagoon. Quentin went up to the bungalow alone late in the afternoon and came down to the dock all excited. There was a troop of five howler monkeys climbing trees and eating fruit right in front of our bungalow!



Beth, Annick and Isaac raced up to watch them with Quentin. Gerard and Xavier were still out on the water, but made it back in time to enjoy them too. There was a large dominant male, a smaller male, a female with a baby and a male teen. At times, they were only about six feet away from us. In fact, one of them climbed down a tree and crossed our steps before running up another tree to eat. We followed the howler monkeys around taking pictures and videos for about one hour. What an exciting and entertaining ending to a relaxing afternoon.







After another huge meal (the food is delicious here, but the portions are gargantuan), we set out on a spotlight safari. We spotted lots of cool critters, but the camera does not do well with low light, so we’ll have to share the video after we get home. We saw a number of crocodiles. One impressive male was about 8 feet long and we could clearly see his teeth. Unlike the crocs you see in zoos, these guys were energetic. It was surprising to see just how fast they can swim through the water. On our safari, we also saw a fishing bat, long nose bats, various nocturnal birds and a kinkajou high up in a tree.

We went to bed exhausted around 9:30. At 2:30 in the morning, we were awakened by a howler monkey that must have been sitting in a tree right near our bungalows. They make the creepiest howl. You would never expect that this very loud and fearsome noise came from an adorable 30 lb. monkey. It sounded like a tortured jaguar (or the sound track from the Blair Witch Project).

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SV22Ua3zwN4&feature=related

Sunday, June 20, 2010

Belize - Day 2 - Lamanai ruins

We were all awake early due to the jungle noises---lots of birds chattering and howler monkeys groaning. So Beth was up to take a picture of a wonderful sunrise from our front porch.



After a HUGE breakfast, we set out with Mauricio to the Lamanai ruins to see an ancient Mayan town where 60,000 Mayans used to live. We visited three temples and a courtyard. The tallest temple is the third tallest Mayan temple in Belize. It had many steep steps in blazing sun.



We were a sweaty mess, but we did climb to the tippy top and had a gorgeous view of the jungle and New River lagoon below.



But then we needed to go down ... definitely scarier then going up.



We kept hearing howler monkeys, but didn’t see any until the end of our walk when we spotted a lone one lounging on a high tree branch. We went home and jumped in the water hoping for some refreshment, but the water was nearly as warm as the air temperature. We hung out in the water a bit and then went to lunch. Another enormous and delicious meal. The afternoon was devoted to lazing around.

Belize - Day 1

Our trip down to Belize City went seamlessly--the flights departed and arrived a bit early, the flights were smooth and we were immediately met by the Clayton at the airport to take us to the Lamanai river launch. We all thought that he said it would take 5 minutes to the launch, but either this was a “Belizian” 5 minutes or he really said 55 minutes. We were all starting to get tired by the time we got to the launch so it was great to get on the water with the breeze in our faces.

From Belize10


During the one hour trip along the river, we saw plenty of wildlife – “Jesus Christ birds”, bats, storks, egrets, kingfishers, “and more”.

From Belize10


Once we arrived at Lamanai everyone was running on adrenaline. Quentin and Annick took a canoe and started exploring the lagoon. Papa and Isaac followed them in their own canoe – leaving two children on their own to explore in a canoe around a lagoon with crocodiles didn’t seem like a good idea. The paddle to the other side of the lagoon and back was relaxing and killed about an hour. It was then time for dinner – shrimp in a curry sauce.

After dinner we did an evening walk with Mauricio. At our first stop we discovered that ants are very active at night and can crawl up your leg and bite you. Xavier and Isaac seemed the most unlucky in this respect. And if the ants didn’t get you, the heat did – the wind had died down and it was sweltering. We couldn’t tell if we were itchy due to insect bites or heat rash. Throw on top of this the inevitable decline in adrenaline and it is amazing that we managed to have a very good time, thanks to Mauricio’s animal finding skills. On our first stop he found a red-eyed tree frog and basilisk lizards. This was followed by a tarantula which he managed to coax out of its burrow using a twig and his spit. As if that wasn’t brave enough, Mauricio then blocked the spider’s burrow with his hand – so the spider couldn’t get back home – and then picked up the not-to-happy spider to bring it over to us. In particular, while holding the spider upside down, Mauricio poked her until she revealed her ½ inch fangs. Very cool, but not for a million bucks would any of us do what Mauricio did!

The creepy creature tour was not over with. Unbeknownst to any of us, scorpions glow under a black light! So Mauricio used his black light to find a scorpion in a rock wall and again, he coaxed the scorpion out in the open. But this time Mauricio did not attempt to pick up the scorpion.

Sunday, September 21, 2008

Ka Kite Ano (See You Again)

From May08


This is the last blog entry for our year in New Zealand written (sadly) from our dining room table in Bala Cynwyd, Pennsylvania. Our last month in Puhoi was a mixed bag in many ways. The weather was warm, cold, rainy, sunny, windy, quiet and muddy. We saw many glorious rainbows arching across the sky during those last few weeks. We looked forward to reconnecting with family and friends back in the states, but felt very weepy about leaving others behind. We were happy about returning to summer holidays in America, but our hearts ached when we thought about leaving our Kiwi life. Our feelings at departure reflected our feelings at arrival: we were happy, sad, excited and scared. In fact, you can see it in our faces in this picture. It was taken just moments before we got in the car to leave Puhoi.

From July08


Surprisingly, we are all having worse culture shock returning “home” than we did coming to New Zealand. All the stereotypes about American life smacked us in the face: we are often wasteful, competitive, aggressive, materialistic and arrogant. Clearly, not everyone is this way, but it is a little jarring at first. The more attractive elements of American life are often quieter: the mostly successful blending of so many cultures, religions, and languages in one country, the generosity of many Americans with their time and money, the breadth of educational resources and opportunities that enable us to have choices. One on one, Americans are often outgoing and optimistic, but this isn’t always obvious when driving in New Jersey.

We have been home for ten weeks or so and we have been jolted back into the chaos and demands of our lives here. Gerard has been exceedingly busy at work. Beth has been ferrying children from one appointment to another for doctors, dentists, orthodontists, placement exams, music lessons and tutoring as well as keeping the pantry stocked, paying bills and puttering around the house. The children have been working hard to keep up with the demands of school. Actually, they have been working really hard to keep up with the demands of school. That has generated yet other concerns for us.

In the end, we feel so fortunate to have been able to spend an incredibly positive and enriching experience in such a beautiful and easygoing country. We had an awesome landlady with an equally awesome dog and both of them loved us like our own family. Our Puhoi house was charming and comfortable. The children loved school and the friends they met there. We were blessed with gorgeous beaches and bushwalks teeming with birds and foliage just minutes from our home. We remember with special fondness our first walk in Wenderholm. We were up to our knees in mud, but the children had a blast climbing the huge pohutukawa trees, followed by a walk serenaded by all sorts of melodious birds, including the unique tui.

It all seems like ages ago, but our Kiwi life remains a part of us now. Hopefully, the stories recounted in this blog and the hundreds of pictures we took will keep our precious memories alive for years to come.

Monday, June 16, 2008

The A, B, C’s of Schooling in New Zealand





In this blog we have written about some aspects of schooling in New Zealand, but as we are nearing the end of our stay in New Zealand, we thought it would be fun to organize our impressions about school life here and reflect on some of those differences. Here are some thoughts based on our experiences at Warkworth Primary School and Mahurangi College.

Academic tracking: Children are explicitly placed into groups based on academic ability at the college (secondary) level. There are “low banders”, “middle banders” and “high banders”. This is done in a subtler way in the primary (elementary) school. Children are grouped for reading, math (mathS here) and spelling based on their performance on assessment tests. At the primary level, these placements are more fluid as there is frequent assessment. The upside is that the children are working precisely at the level where they are performing. The downside (especially at the college level) is, most obviously, the labeling. It can have a motivating effect. Annick and Isaac moved up every month or so to a new reading level and this pleased them greatly!

Barefoot children: We still get tickled by this one. At the college level, children are required to be barefoot during physical education. However, at the primary level, most children go around school barefoot all day long.

Camps: New Zealand schools love leadership and team-building camps. Almost every year, a given class will go on some sort of two- to three-day overnight adventure experience together, reminiscent of summer camp in the USA.

Donations: Nearly all public schools ask for a family donation to the school at the beginning of the year. It is a set amount which is strongly requested, but never required. In lieu of being bombarded with dozens of products to buy throughout the school year like wrapping paper and pizza mixes, we paid once and that was it. The only other fundraiser for the school was the gala, a fair with loads of games, entertainment and food. This functioned as much as a community builder as a fundraiser. We were thrilled that we didn’t have to act as ravenous consumers just to feel we were supporting our school.

Expectations: Given that New Zealand performs very well worldwide on math and literacy tests (always somewhere in the top five in the world!), we were a little surprised that academic expectations were not particularly high. New Zealand seems very strong in preparing their children to be solidly literate citizens of society, but not so driven to create mentally energetic scholars. At the primary level, we found school to be comparable with our “home school” in the United States. College was less challenging for Xavier than Bala Cynwyd Middle School.

Free time: The school day is slightly shorter here (9 a.m. to 3 p.m. for the primary students, 8:40 a.m. to 3:20 p.m. for the secondary students) and more breaks are built into the day. There is a morning tea time and a long lunch with plenty of time to eat, play and hang out with schoolmates. Consequently, the children seemed more focused and less tired.

Garbage in, garbage out: In an effort to reduce waste, children are not allowed to throw anything from their lunchboxes into the rubbish bins. If you pack a yogurt for lunch, you must also provide a way for your child to bring home the empty container. There is a lot less paper floating around Kiwi schools than American schools. For better or for worse, children spend more time copying things off the board into their own notebooks than filling out printed worksheets.

Hats: The primary school requires that children wear brimmed hats in Terms 1 and 4 (the summery terms). There is a high incidence of skin cancer in New Zealand and given how often the children are outside, they strictly enforce this policy.

Instruments: There is some musical instruction in the schools. At the primary level, in addition to doing a lot of singing, the children learn to play the recorder and the ukulele.

Jesus plays a part in Kiwi schools. In the primary school on Friday mornings, the children receive religious education based on Christian teachings. Easter and Christmas stories are shared in the classroom. The younger children even perform a nativity play in December. We found this a bit odd as most people we met in New Zealand are not at all religious.

Kiwiana: As expected, the New Zealand (national) curriculum centers on New Zealand. Our children learned a lot this year about Kiwi history, culture, geography, plants, animals and language. After ten months in New Zealand, we all know a whole lot more about kowhai trees, kiwi birds and the historical significance of Kerikeri.

Lice: Infestations of lice are a common occurrence in New Zealand and Australian schools. No one reacts very much to a case of nits as most children expect to get them at some point, much like catching the common cold. We learned early on that tea tree oil shampoo helps to keep them at bay and we have been lucky to have escaped so far.

Maori: There is no French instruction at Warkworth Primary or Mahurangi College, but our children have learned some Maori this year. It is a challenging language and difficult to pronounce. Most enjoyable is that the children can now chant the “Haka”, a Maori war dance.

New Zealand national anthem: Our children have learned to sing it in both English AND Maori.

Outdoors: Even at school, life in New Zealand revolves around the outdoors. Kiwi classrooms are connected by covered outdoor walkways opening out onto courtyards. Indoor hallways are almost non-existent. There is no cafeteria. Children eat outside on wooden tables. Every day, the children are able to see the sun (or the clouds) and have fresh air for at least 20% of the school day! This was a huge psychological perk for our children.

Puhoi bus: The school bus picks up ALL the schoolchildren (from five- to eighteen-years-old) at 8:15 in the morning in front of the General Store. It is a comfortable, coach-style bus. It takes about 15-20 minutes to travel to Warkworth where the college students are dropped off before the primary students get delivered. At the end of the day, the primary students board just after 3 o’clock and then ride over to pick up the college kids before starting the trip home. It is heartwarming to see how the older kids befriend and look out for the younger ones. All the children of all ages giggle, goof off and chat together on the bus.

Quaint atmosphere: Sometimes the word “quaint” is used in a patronizing way and that is not our intention here. One of the things we love most about the schools here is the cozy, comfortable, old-fashioned ambiance. It is laid back and not at all legalistic. It is true that there is a lack of glitzy, high-tech resources at the schools here. Students don’t give powerpoint presentations nor are they even expected to have access to a computer at home, but there is a lot of personalized care. Especially at the primary school, we felt our children were really embraced. When we needed something, we felt we could ask and it would be delivered in a timely manner without reams of paperwork and meetings.

Reading and writing are taught in a different way than at home in Cynwyd. There is less emphasis on phonemic reading and more time spent on sight words. Children are given lists of the most commonly used English words in reading and writing. Through various means, they are encouraged to learn these. Children are assessed and placed in reading groups with children of a similar level. The school has loads of small, simple books that are color coded to correspond with each reading level. Each child reads a given book at school with adult guidance, brings the book home to read with a parent for homework and then rereads the same book a third time at school the next day. Seeing the same, appropriate-level book three times helped the twins progress rapidly with reading. Like the reading program, the writing program is very structured and systematic. The teachers provide formulas to follow for certain kinds of writing and then guide the children through them. The methodology used here worked very well for our children.

Sports figure prominently in Kiwi society. Kiwi children are involved in all sorts of sporty activities including swimming, cricket, rugby, sailing and surfing. Even the primary school has a small pool and a huge field for playing sports. Quentin benefited the most this year from the sports programs. He participated in several swim competitions and won plenty of recognition. He also discovered that he can throw a mean cricket pitch!

Technology: Xavier was required to take a number of technology courses this year such as food tech (cooking), fabric tech (fashion design and sewing) and metal tech (welding). In case he didn’t already know, Xavier learned that he isn’t fond of gooey lemon bars, he does not have a gift for putting together fabulous outfits and one can get burned while using a soldering iron.

Uniforms: Even public school students wear uniforms in most New Zealand schools. Surprisingly, our kids loved them. There was no worry about what to wear each day and everyone looked the same, eliminating much of the “cool” factor amongst the kids. Once in awhile, the school would host “mufti” days when the kids could wear their own clothes. These were special days where most students would bring in a gold coin (a dollar) in exchange for the privilege of wearing street clothes and the money would go to a charitable cause. On school trips, the uniform is a real plus as it is much easier to identify your school’s students. At the end of the school day, however, it is sometimes hard to find your own children in a sea of similarly dressed kids.

Virtues and Vices: The Kiwi children we have met are generally very polite and imaginative. They are refreshingly not materialistic and very rarely spoiled. However, they do curse a lot! The primary school actually includes the teaching of virtues like courtesy and helpfulness in the curriculum.

Whanau is the Maori word for family. At Mahurangi College, all the students were assigned to a whanau group that they stayed with throughout their years at Mahu. There is a mix of kids in there from all class years. It is yet another way the school encourages children of different classes to interact with each other.

Xenophiles or xenophobes? New Zealand is just starting to really struggle with a more pluralistic society. Up until recently, there were New Zealanders of European descent (mostly British Isles, but some Dutch) and the Maori people. Closer to Auckland, there are far more immigrants than further north near Puhoi. There is some backlash toward Asians in particular. Mostly, New Zealanders do seem tolerant. At school, there were some Australian students, some British, a few Asian children and a group of children from the Pacific Islands like Samoa and Kiribati. Curiously, about ten percent of the children in Year 3 with Annick and Isaac were from Kiribati.

Year-Round School: Well, not quite, but more than our school district back home. The New Zealand school year begins in early February and ends in late December. It is divided into four terms with two weeks of holiday between each term except after Term 4 when there are six to seven weeks of summer holidays. We liked this pattern. The summer holidays were long enough to feel like a good, long, restful break, but it was awesome to have three two-week breaks elsewhere in the year.

Zenith moments: Warkworth Primary School is excellent at finding ways to recognize and reward the achievements of their students. The children are given certificates every time they progress into a new reading level, for example. There is a school assembly every two weeks to share school news and to give awards. The awards can be very simple. Annick won one for “outstanding effort in all academic areas”, Isaac for "settling quickly to tasks and taking responsibility", and Quentin for "being a most reliable sports shed monitor".

Homekill and Other Rural Realities

Rural living is not for the faint of heart. Most Kiwi families own animals and most often, they serve a purpose. Even the family dog has an important job as fierce guardian of the property and herder of the sheep. A testy or uncooperative dog gets “sent to the farm” where it is euthanized with a gun by the farmer. A dog who dares to chase the neighbor’s sheep or worse yet, attack and eat one of the neighbor’s sheep, is destined to die. The neighbor has the lawful right to shoot the dog or can demand that you do the deed when the dog has transgressed. This happens more than you want to know. Happily, our dog has stayed close to home.

Chooks (hens and roosters) provide eggs and little chooks in order to always ensure a fresh chicken dinner. I have been told that you need to unmercifully pin the bird down and whack the neck cleanly or you will lose the battle. Feeding the chooks inevitably attracts rats. The rodents must be exterminated in order to ensure the health and safety of the flock. Some poison, some trap and some just shoot ‘em dead with a gun.

We don’t have chooks, but we do have rats. We are told that they are common in Puhoi because of the river that runs behind our property. We have heard them climbing in between the walls and up near the flue of the fireplace, but most disturbing for us is to be woken up at 4:30 in the morning to the sound of rats chewing the wood under the floorboards. It sounds as if they are already in the house. Someone reported to Beth that they actually had rats chew holes right through the floor! Our preferred method of raticide is a combination of poison and Victor traps from Pennsylvania. We took pictures of our first few dead rats, but the charm has worn off. We have caught about a dozen and God only knows how many we may have poisoned.







Along with the rats, we have also had some of their smaller cousins, the mice. We had tolerated a lone mouse or two, but Beth reached her limit one night when a mouse ran around the tops of her woolen clogs at least three times in circles. Beth screamed and then we were on the hunt for the mouse who somehow disappeared under our bed. It took two hours, but Gerard finally pinned the poor chap with an old mop. We have since bought traps and subsequently, many of our mice have met their maker.

Many households have paddocks with sheep, cows or horses that need regular maintenance. Sheep need to be shorn twice a year or they risk dying a horrible death by the carnivorous blowfly. Horses need covers here to keep them warm since they aren’t kept in stables. All farm animals need various medications that are routinely advertised on national television. While watching “American Idol”, we are often interrupted with a commercial break toting the benefits of a given de-worming medication for livestock.

Sheep and cows are sometimes kept for wool and milk, but not exclusively. You buy a young animal and let it graze. After it has grown up enough, you call someone who does “homekills”. Essentially, a traveling butcher shows up, kills your animal and chops it up for you. You can freeze the meat and feed many people for many months or better yet, you have a homekill barbie (barbecue) and invite your friends to eat the cow or bull formally known as Elsie or Bob. Thank goodness we have avoided this aspect of rural life.






One day last week, a friend at the bus stop complained about how long she had procrastinated about getting the butcher over to kill the cow. She finally arranged it, but the night before, they couldn’t find the cow. Early the next morning before the sun rose, she and her husband climbed up the steep hill of their paddock with torches in hand looking for the darn cow while kicking cow pies in the cold and dark. They had no luck. The butcher arrived and surprisingly, the cow willingly reappeared along with a couple friends. One look at the butcher, however, and the cow jumped the fence. She will live another two weeks, I am told. This is not a conversation I would be having at the bus stop in Bala Cynwyd.

As far as we can tell, horses are the only animals in New Zealand that don’t serve a practical purpose. In a country of very little frivolity, it seems that most people who own horses simply enjoy their beauty and companionship. Our next door neighbor is a lovely mare named Rose. When she sees us, she whinnies, runs to the fence and relishes a nice pat on the nose. She is a sweetheart, but you wonder if she knows that she holds a privileged spot as far as animals are concerned in New Zealand.



Thursday, June 12, 2008

A Date on the Bird Island



Gerard and Beth decided to spend a day at Tiritiri Matangi while the children were at school. In past visits, we had never been successful at getting a picture of a saddleback, a native bird that hops and flits around in a highly caffeinated manner. Saddlebacks are mostly black but have an orange-brown spot on their back, which, as their name suggests, looks like a saddle. They only live on offshore islands and even though we had seen plenty of them on past trips to Tiritiri, we had never caught a shot of one. We had a pleasant and relaxing day, serenaded by bellbirds and tuis as we walked around the island. With some patience and a little luck, Gerard got a couple of decent saddleback shots.





Later, while eating lunch near the lighthouse, we were approached by one very curious takahe hoping for a handout. We were delightfully surprised to discover, in the last hour of our visit, two kokakos feeding in a tree. Along with the kiwi, they were the only species of bird on Tiritiri that we had never had the pleasure of seeing before. Now if we could only get those red headed parrots to sit still for a moment. Guess that’s our mission on the next visit.